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March 24,
2006:
We're living like the locals about an
hour northwest of Rome. The province of Lazio is overshadowed
by Rome and often overlooked by frenzied tourists on a tight
schedule. Some Italians have summer homes here-others
are full-time residents. Lots of re-construction is in
progress on our street. According to some American ex-pats, “The
Italians cry poor, but when it comes to eating out at a restaurant
or building houses, they must have money stuffed in their
mattresses.” Allegedly, in Crete, barrels of money are hidden
in caves. In Italy, they literally sleep on their fortunes.
And we thought it was their lovers that call them to the bed.
In general, Lazio is not as tidy and picturesque as Tuscany,
but still there are rolling hills, close proximity to the sea and
Lake Bracciano. This area is also entrenched in Etruscan
history. Two of the most significant Etruscan sites the tomb
paintings at Tarquinia and the tombs in Cerverteri are less than an
hour from here.
While our hosts were still here, we took a
few days to visit Sienna. It was like returning to the middle
ages. Steeped in history and art, we walked around the old
city and spent our time in museums.
The main
attraction is the gothic cathedral, the Duomo. The marble
floors depict many different scenes-many of them violent. The
overflow art, and that removed to prevent erosion, is housed in the
cathedral museum. It features some of the most excellent statues in
Italy by Giovanni Pisano, and a 700 year old Madonna and child
(Maesta) and stained glass window by Duccio di Buoninsegna.
We also loved the Spedale Di S. Maria Della Scala, one of
the oldest hospitals in Europe. The Pilgram's Ward was in use
until late in the 20th century. Massive wall frescos by
Lorenzo Vecchietta and Domenico di Bartolo line the towering walls.
They depict the details of day-to-day life surrounding the hospital
in the middle ages. One does not need to be literate or speak
Italian to comprehend. The entirety of the fescos forms its own
folklore museum.
We also drove to Montalcina, renowned for
its Brunello and other fine wines. Due to the heavy influx of
tourists, the wine is more expensive in the town than it is in the
local grocery store 10 minutes from where we are staying in Canale
Monterrano.
We have met some friends of our hosts, shared
dinner with them, and plan to do some sightseeing together this
weekend. Like many locals, they don't often take the time to visit
the nearby attractions unless outsiders motivate them.
They
are both from the nearby town of Manziana. She speaks 4
languages and loves to travel. They kept telling us that it was fine
to have an "American" dinner. "The food is not important, spending
time with you is important." Nevertheless, in the Italian
tradition, they showed up for dinner with a bottle of red wine and
freshly baked biscottis garnished with a thin branch of fragrant,
yellow flowers from the trees now in bloom. Yet, another piece
of art to savour.
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